Three lovely riverside towns in Carlow: Leighlinbridge - Bagenalstown - Borris.

Three lovely riverside towns in County Carlow: 

Leighlinbridge - Bagnalstown - Borris.

The Barrow flows under the old 9-arch bridge and past the ruined Black Castle in Leighlinbridge.

The old Norton maltings in Bagenalstown that may yet get a new lease of life.

A walk into history on the banks of The Barrow

The River Barrowis a link between the three small towns of Leighlinbridge (pop. c 1k), Bagenalstown (2.8k) and Borris (0.7k). The Barrow is one of the Three Sisters and runs through much of County Carlow. 

I don't know how long the trip between the three towns would take you by boat but by road it is just 18 minutes. Linger a while, though, and enjoy the history and sites along the banks.

We were based in Leighlinbridge (at the excellent Lord Bagenal’s Inn) and drove off one afternoon in the direction of Bagenalstown. Like the other places, walks from here go in each direction along the side of the river, each signposted the Barrow Way. You’ll also notice that the town has an outdoor swimming pool on the river bank.

Bagenalstown's outdoor swimming pool (heated )

There are quite a few old malthouses scattered around the area and the first one that we saw was quite close to that swimming pool. It has been idle for a long time, but that could change. A notice on the door (whose paint is peeling) indicates that Walsh Whiskey (a local company) is seeking to restore the quite large building and turn it into a working distillery. That would be a shot in the arm for the town.

The trains may be gone but the 1860 viaduct still stands, all 16 arches!

If you‘d like to get on the river, this is an ideal spot. An Bád Keppel, a community boat, operates from here. More info at www.bagenalstowntripboat.com.

Our next stop was Borris, an excellent base for exploring the nearby mountains. Here, the unmissable spectacular 16-arch railway viaduct is a highlight. It is situated at the lower end of the town, turn left at Kelly’s Steelworks and go past the large school on your left, go under that arch of the viaduct and the car park is about 50 metres away on your left. 

It is relatively easy to walk up to the viaduct via a curving path, which you may shorten by taking a series of concrete steps. You might bring a picnic, as there are a few tables at the far end.

View of the Blackstairs Mountains from the viaduct.
The highest point is Mount Leinster, the one with the transmission mast (look closely or enlarge)

The viaduct once carried the now-defunct Great Southern and Western Railway Line between Bagenalstown and Palace East in Co. Wexford. The line's final action came when a group of enthusiasts made a goodbye trip in 1963, just over a hundred years after the viaduct was first used.

Little Leighlinbridge had more than one malthouse.

Today, the passageway (or road) on top has been paved, and you can safely walk there. Enjoy the views of the surrounding countryside, which stretches as far away as Mount Leinster in the Blackstairs Mountains. 

When we had finished our walk, we headed back towards  Leighlinbridge and took a leisurely walk around. By the Valerian Bridge itself, at the side opposite the ruined Black Castle (there's been a castle here since the late 12th century), you’ll find more opportunities to do another stretch of the Barrow Walk. 

Three of the viaduct's 16 arches.

Back then, over the 9-arch bridge, you’ll see where the old Butter Market stood. From here, in the 19th century, butter was conveyed by the river to Waterford for the London and other markets. No small market this, and I’ve seen it claimed as the country’s second-largest (next to Cork). Goods left here also to be sent by river to Carlow, Dublin and intermediate towns.

Enough strolling for the day. Back to the comforts of the Lord Bagenal and a refreshing O’Hara’s Ale in the bar.

Next stop: Baht, the superb Thai restaurant in Carlow town.

Also on this trip

Arboretum Garden Centre & Cafe

Leighlinbridge, Bagenalstown and Borris

BAHT Thai

The Lord Bagenal Inn

Duckett’s Grove

Cafe Mullichain post plus Blackstairs Mountains

O'Hara's Irish Pale Ale.