Monte Dall’ Ora Valpolicella Classico (DOC) Saseti. “Knowledge and respect for natural cycles help us to find the balance.

Monte Dall’ Ora Valpolicella Classico (DOC) Saseti 2022, 12.5% ABV

RRP €26.95. Stockists: 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork, Le Caveau online

“Knowledge and respect for natural cycles help us to find the balance”

The colour of our Valpolicella Classico is a pale, though very bright, garnet. Aromas of cherries and strawberries greet you. Freshness and flavour prevail in the mouth with minty notes and crunchy spices. It’s a gentle, light-bodied wine with a cherry-fruited elegance. 

Bright and unoaked and very drinkable. And Very Highly Recommended.

If I remember rightly, from an earlier tasting, the hands on the label belong to the winemakers Alesandra and Carlo Venturini and their children.

Located in Castelroto, in the hills outside of Verona, the vineyards of Monte dall’Ora form a natural amphitheatre facing southeast towards the city. The Venturinis are firm adherents to biodynamic principles. As such, they encourage the growth of biodiversity. And have emphasised traditional and native grape varieties wherever possible.

“Knowledge and respect for natural cycles help us to find the balance that gives us a state of well-being and that will benefit our whole microcosm (soil-vine-wine-man)”. All the wines are blends of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara and Oseleta. Fermentation is spontaneous with indigenous yeasts and extraction is gentle.…”

Their website gives the blend for this Saseti as Corvina 40%, Corvinone 30%, Rondinella 20%, Molinara and Oseleta 10%. Ageing is in steel and concrete for a few months before bottling. No oak ageing takes place. The wines are bottled unfiltered and unfined.

They suggest a serving temperature of 16 to 18 degrees. This “wine that accompanies you all day”, can be sipped from a glass “as a snack with friends to the entire meal, with cured meats, soups, white meats and fatty fish.” Other suggestions are the likes of spicy sausages and game.

* This post is part of a series on Italian wines made from native grapes and produced by usually small or medium-sized organic wineries. Taking some “guidance” here from the recently published VINO. Mightn’t always net the hat trick but hope to score two from the three each time. I have quite a few lined up but I’m happy to consider any suggestions or help. #OrganicItaly

The fox is back in the chicken run! Our Beer of the Week is Kinnegar's Maddyroe American Red

 Beer of the Week

Kinnegar Maddyroe American Red, 5.8%, 440 ml can Carry Out St Luke’s

The fox is back in the chicken run!

Red is the colour of my true love’s hair (as Donovan sang away back when) and also the colour of this American Red ale by Kinnegar. The Maddyroe head though is not red but off-white. The malt is first to show in the aromas, but overall this is, as they say themselves, “More hop forward than its maltier Irish cousin”.  

Malt still has quite an input on the palate where you’ll also find a resinous streak from the hops. It is a gorgeous mouthful, certainly more American red than Irish but none the worse for that. Quite a finish also and Very Highly Recommended and our Beer of the Week.

Kinnegar’s Inst screamed last February that the fox was back amongst the chickens when this ale was relaunched. Maddyroe first took a bow back in March 2014 when it poured at the Alltech Craft Brews & Food Festival in Dublin’s Convention Centre. “That seems like a lifetime ago. The festival is now extinct but happily, this lovely red beer is not.”

The brewery continues: “Last year Maddyroe re-emerged for the first time since our canning line was installed at K2 in 2018. The inimitable illustrator of Kinnegarland, Dermot Flynn, created one of his masterpieces to capture the quintessential character of the ‘madra rua’ or ‘red dog’, or Mr Fox, as he is better known to most chickens…”. And to red ale aficionados around the country, and beyond,

Farmgate Finds a New Home, and a Big Welcome, in Lismore

Farmgate Finds a New Home in Lismore

Calamari

Lismore has warmly welcomed Farmgate, a beloved restaurant forced to relocate from flood-stricken Midleton where they had been operating since that restaurant business was founded by Marog O'Brien in 1983. Bringing their renowned food and friendly service to West Waterford, Farmgate offers a delightful dining experience.

Warm Welcome & Inviting Atmosphere

Step inside Farmgate's charming Main Street location and be greeted by the effervescent Sally O'Brien (Marog's daughter). Settle into a cosy table in the back room, or grab a stool in the bustling counter area (these seats are walk-ins only) for a more casual bite, or soak up the sunshine on the delightful garden patio (weather permitting). If you have a group, say a family celebration, then plan ahead and book the private alcove (for up to ten diners)

Delicious Dishes Made with Local Love

Start your culinary journey with a classic dish of Deep Fried Calamari with tomato chilli sauce and basil pesto - try this, we did and it was top-notch.  Perhaps you'll opt for the Chicken Liver Paté with tangy Cumberland sauce, the refreshing Warm Chicken Ginger Salad, or the Ardsallagh Goat's Cheese Salad. Another tempting option is their signature chowder, brimming with cod, salmon, and smoked haddock. 

For mains, there is the dilemma is picking one from the delightful list. Indulge in the vibrant Garden Pea and Mint Risotto, savour the rich flavours of the Traditional Duck Leg Confit, or celebrate local produce with the Roast Loin of McGrath's Beef, served with all the trimmings. Pan-seared free-range chicken is always a crowd-pleaser, and there are usually two fresh fish dishes on offer. Don't forget to explore the tempting selection of side dishes to complete your plate.

Drinks & Desserts to Match

Quench your thirst with a selection of bubbles, still wines, beers, and spirits. Fancy a sweet finale? The Apple Crumble (worth the wait!) and the Lemon Posset are divine choices (if you can resist the local strawberries and cream). Cheese lovers can rejoice in the Irish cheeseboard, featuring the creamy Triple Rose from Armagh and the robust Hegarty's from Cork.

Farmgate champions local producers. Their suppliers include McGrath's Butchers (Lismore) for premium cuts, Vinilo (Lismore) and Harringtons Youghal for crusty breads, Atlantis Wexford for the freshest fish, Country Store Dungarvan for seasonal vegetables, and more.

Lamb

A Culinary Gem with Artistic Flair

The focus on fresh, local ingredients shines through in every dish. Take the Slow Cooked Braised Lamb Shank – the meat falls off the bone, bathed in a fragrant rosemary lamb jus, accompanied by creamy spring onion champ and a vibrant carrot and swede purée. It's a testament to the quality ingredients simply prepared. 

 Equally impressive is the Baked Hake, boasting a succulent fillet bathed in a rich red pepper sauce, served with perfectly cooked new potatoes and the same delightful carrot and swede purée. The presentation is simple yet elegant, allowing the fresh flavours to take centre stage. We enjoyed both and can heartily recommend them.

Art enthusiasts will be pleased to find that Michael Quane's sculptures, a beloved feature of the Midleton Farmgate, have also found a new home in Lismore. Admire a few pieces within the restaurant and explore the garden oasis, dotted with several more sculptures.

Hake

Stonewell cider 0%

Tips & Getting There

Friendly tip: Cash or card? While Farmgate accepts cards, adding a gratuity isn't currently possible electronically. Bring some cash to show your appreciation for the excellent service.

The restaurant is a leisurely 9-minute walk from the town car park. Street parking might be available closer but be mindful of the double yellow lines on the narrow stretch directly outside the restaurant.

Plan Your Visit

Combine your Farmgate experience with a scenic detour! Take the breathtaking Vee Drive through the Knockmealdown Mountains or explore the historic Lismore Castle grounds and gardens. If visiting the castle, park at the town car park for a short and pleasant 150-meter walk to the entrance. The walk between the car park and the restaurant is 9 minutes.

Farmgate in Lismore is a delightful addition to the West Waterford dining scene. With its focus on fresh, local produce, warm service, and charming atmosphere, it's a must-try for anyone looking for a delicious and memorable dining experience.

Lismore Castle

Bay Lough in the Vee.

A light-bodied charmer, perfect for a casual evening.

A light-bodied charmer, perfect for a casual evening.

Musella Valpolicella Superiore (DOC) 2020, 13% ABV

€21.95 O’Briens Wine

Forget that boring red juice – this Musella Valpolicella Superiore is here to shake things up!

Pour yourself a glass and check out the gorgeous ruby red colour – a touch deeper than the recent Monte Dall’ Ora Valpolicella Classico. Take a whiff, and you'll be greeted by a delightful mix of strawberries, blackcurrants, and a hint of minty freshness.

Easy on the Palate

This is a wine that goes down easy. It's smooth and juicy, with a touch of spice that keeps things interesting. Plus, there's a lovely cherry flavour that lingers on the finish. Think of it as a light-bodied charmer with smooth tannins – perfect for a casual evening. Highly Recommended.

Award-Winning? More Like Earth-Loving

This beauty comes from Musella, a top organic and biodynamic winery nestled in a 500-hectare natural park in Italy. Owned by the Pasqua family, they're all about sustainable practices. Daughter Maddalena is the vineyard boss, and she's the one who steered them towards organic farming. This dedication to good vibes for the planet paid off, because now they're Demeter-certified biodynamic – basically the gold standard for eco-conscious winemaking.

Winemaker with a Twist

Enrico Raber, the family nephew, gets creative with the fermentation process. He uses a mix of stainless steel tanks, concrete eggs (fancy, right?), and even experimental granite vats! After that, the wine chills out in large oak casks before hitting the shelves.

A Story of Resilience

The 2020 vintage wasn't all sunshine and rainbows. A nasty hailstorm ripped through the Verona area in August, putting a scare into many winemakers. But lucky for us, Musella escaped relatively unscathed. As they say, "The show must go on," and the grapes kept ripening after the storm. The end result? A "more than satisfactory" vintage, if I say so myself!

The Future is Biodynamic

Musella isn't stopping here. They believe Valpolicella wines have the potential to be even more amazing, free from market pressures and bursting with pure, delicious flavour. We can't wait to see what organic goodness they come up with next!

Price & Place

For €21.95 at O'Briens Wine, this biodynamic beauty is a steal. So ditch the ordinary and grab a bottle – your taste buds (and the planet) will thank you!

The five levels of Valpolicella

There are five levels of Valpolicella beginning at Level 1 with Valpolicella Classico.

Level 2: Here you find Level 1’s bigger and boozier brother Valpolicella Classico Superiore.

Level 3: Valpolicella Ripasso, the poorman’s Amarone.

Level 4: Amarone della Valpolicella. Here freshly picked bunches of grapes are dried out before use. This takes time and so the wines cost that bit more (often a good bit more!).

Level 5: Recioto della Valpolicella. The grapes for very sweet wine are dried for even longer periods and the sweet sweet wine ages for a very long time. Rare and expensive!

* This post is part of a series on Italian wines made from native grapes and produced by usually small or medium-sized organic wineries. Taking some “guidance” here from the recently published VINO. Mightn’t always net the hat trick but hope to score two from the three each time. I have quite a few lined up but I’m happy to consider any suggestions or help. #OrganicItaly

On the Craft Trail with lagers by Mo Chara and Hope and a gift from Malaga!

On the Craft Trail with Mo Chara, Hope and a gift from Malaga!

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Mo Chara Lager, 4.2% ABV, 330 ml bottle Carry Out St Luke’s

A real clean and smooth 4.2% gluten-free lager

The first thing you notice is the stubby little bottle so beloved by those Australians who measure everything in stubbies. The time it takes to get to Youigahl from Cork would be a two to three stubbie trip while the line for Kylie concert tickets might be described as a multiple of that!

The colour scheme on the bottle is not overinviting, then again this fits with the no-nonsense description also applied to this Dunbdalk lager.

Dundalk, as a town, can chalk “most of its existence down to our history and expertise in brewing and distilling.” Mo Chara continues:  “Our wee stubby is the perfect combo of tradition meets tomorrow with a special nod to Mo Chara's arched brick windows built in 1902 featured in the label shape.”

The lads from Dundalk and my Australians would really get on together. Like the Aussies, the three lads from Mo Chara, also the name of their “greatest little boozer” are not shy when it comes to their achievements.

The Dundalk trio “have brewed the most sup-able lager this country has ever seen”. “This grip and sip is the no-nonsense top-notch tasting beer you've been waiting for. A real clean and smooth 4.2% gluten-free lager with all of that flavour. This is one you're gonna want to grab a four-pack and sup a few back.”

Steady on now lads! In all fairness (as Roy Keane used to say), it is a good one, clean and refreshing. Inviting too with that light gold colour and all those micro-bubbles. The finish is also super satisfactory.

It was highly rated by the guy in the off-licence. “A great little lager”  he enthused, correctly as it turned out. Highly Recommended.

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Hope Underdog Hoppy Lager, 4.8% ABV, 440 ml can O’Briens Wine

Smooth and easy-drinking, it is Highly Recommended

A really light colour, close to pale lemon. There’s a soft white head and quite a haze though not enoiugh to hide all those bubbles escaping towards the top. Floral notes plus citrus and spice feature in the aromas. Then its crisp and clean with the classic lager malt sweetness getting a shy look-in as you head towards a refreshing finish.

Smooth and easy-drinking, it is Highly Recommended. The Dublin brewers say it’s a brilliant all-rounder when it comes to food pairing:  “Great with BBQs, pizza, meats and spicy foods like curries”, the classic matches.

The Underdog story: During the American invasion of Mexico in 1846, Irishman John Riley came to the aid of the Mexicans in their hour of need. He formed the famous San Patricios Battalion and willingly joined the underdog by fighting against the odds. Ok, they lost, but they became Mexican heroes, remembered especially on St. Patrick’s Day, and on every other day of the year by their nickname: Greengo’s.

Geek Bits

Malts: Lager, Carapils, Acidulated

Hops: Hops: Hallertauer Mittelfruh, Saaz

Yeast: German Lager

Bitterness: EBU 25

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Victoria Málaga Beer, 4.8% ABV, 330ml can, gift from Spain.

“Malagueña y exquisita” (“From Málaga and Exquisite”).

Image by David Vives from Pixabay

It is a light, golden colour and has a soft white head. On the palate, its perfect balance of sweetness and bitterness plus the refreshment factor invites you to try it again.

“From Málaga and Exquisite” is not just a slogan “but also the philosophy of our beer”. Victoria is named after the local saint and the brewery was founded in 1928.

The new brewery picked up much of its early know-how from Germany and the 1937 bottle first featured that typical German tourist of the time, holding his boater hat, drying the sweat from his forehead, and enjoying the local brew.

They say that exquisite flavour is down to the beer being carefully made with the traditional slow maturation process, with a minimum of 12 days, ensuring its exquisite flavor. Twelve days doesn’t seem that long. Mescan, big believers in giving beer its due time, use a long maturation process with a minimum of 3 months (up to 9 months with the stronger beers).

Geek Bits:

Serve at 4-6 degrees. 

EBU 23

Sweetness - Medium

Refreshing - High

Carbonation - Medium

Boby - Light

Bitterness - Medium