“Quality comes from the vineyard, there is no doubt about it.” An Austrian example from Diwald in the Wagram
Diwald Grüner Veltliner Vom Löss, Wagram 2020, 12.5% ABV
€17.50 Stockists:Organico, Bantry/ Urru, Bandon / Taste,
Castletownbere / Ardkeen, Waterford / Little Green Grocer Kilkenny /
Vintry, Dublin / Connemara Hamper, Clifden / Mortons of Galway / Mary Pawle Wines
“Quality comes from the vineyard, there is no doubt about it.” So say the younger generation of the Diwald family winery in Austria, organic since 1980. This one is dry, organic, hand-picked and spontaneously fermented and, yes, it is top quality.. And Very Highly Recommended.
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Colour is a light straw and there are green tints (or is that the Christmas tree creeping in?). The “vom Löss” on the label indicates that the grapes were grown on loess sites so expect a pleasingly spicy, is light in its feet and that speaks of its origin.
And that is what you get. Clean white fruit (apple, pear) in the aromas, notes of pepper, even ginger. Quite an initial tingle on the palate and then the clean fresh fruit flavours flow in, a lively streak of acidity there also, a twang of minerality too and a lingering finish. Excellent mouthfeel too and, like most Grüners, this promises to be an flexible companion at the table. Fun even when young and still has good aging potential - enjoy either way.
The younger generation may now have the box seat at Diwald but it was Hans and Paula Diwald who undertook something unthinkable in 1976: the conversion to organic farming. The winery now works 20 hectares of vines and exports to 18 countries on 3 continents. In 2006, Martin Diwald joined the company, was thrown in at the deep end. Now he is at the helm, determinedly leading the way into a clean and sustainable future.
“There is nothing that can be improved in the cellar, quality can only be retained. Wine must be fun, it must always offer something new and it must tempt you to have another sip. And when the bottle is suddenly empty, then you know it’s perfect!”
“Today, the Diwald wine style follows a simple credo: the wines – whether white, red, rosé, orange or cloudy – should be lean, elegant and cheeky, but still offer depth and body. They are individual wines which speak to our – and your – taste buds….”
Wagram, bounded to the west by Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal, is one of Austria's 16 official wine regions, and its loess soil is noted for its water retaining properties. Warm days and cool nights also help the wine-growers and the climate is generally continental.
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Best Value Wines 2022 Under €18.00. With Reviews & Irish Stockists.
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