Recommended Red Wines
Just what the doctors ordered in Faugères
and fireworks from Italy’s Alba
Leonides Météore Faugéres (AOP) 2018, 14%,
€18.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
Just what the doctors ordered.
From the steep-sloped schist outcrops of the Cévennes, where the vineyards of Faugères are planted, comes this excellent blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault.
Colour is a mid to dark ruby. Aromas are quite assertive with strong notes of blackcurrant and hints of the garrigue (thyme, balsamic). No shortage of spice on the velvety palate but also fresh and fruity and well balanced and definitely digestible, a word I’ve heard Le Caveau’s Pascal use quite often, and accurately I think, in regard to organic wines.
An excellent wine, with a long and fruity finish, it is Very Highly Recommended. And you won’t need a prescription! Try in the weeks and months ahead with an Irish stew or a French style cassoulet or with some of O’Flynn’s Gourmet Sausages (especially the spicier ones).
The domaine, certified organic, has been recently purchased by Paul Jenkins and Paul Jarman, two London-based doctors and wine enthusiasts, who have known the area well for many years. Passionate about the possibilities presented by the Faugères schist terroir to create truly compelling wines, they spent a long time searching for a vineyard with the right potential, history and a truly unique setting. When they found Domaine du Météore, they knew they had found the right land and vines to create the wines they wanted.
And the vineyards name? Well many thousands of years ago, a meteor struck the land here and left its mark by way of a crater, a depression where their vines grow very well indeed. Oh yes, you may well notice a streak of minerality!
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Top Wines 2022. With Reviews & Irish Stockists.
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Ciabot Berton Fisetta Barbara D’Alba (DOC) 2017, 14% ABV
€20.65 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny
Barbera is full-bodied, has high acidity and higher-level alcohol, is dry with low tannin, and is the go-to red-wine grape of Piedmont in northern Italy. It is also grown in neighbouring Lombardy and in Emilia Romagna . These three Italian regions account for most of the world’s Barbera crop.
Our Fisetta has a dark colour; you see it immediately on the bottom of the cork where it looks like blackberry. The nose is rather dense and fruity (blackberry jam). May not be as full-bodied as some but no shortage of flavour (cherry, blueberry). And there’s quite a kick of spice as well through the medium long finish. Highly Recommended.
The ‘Fisetta’ cuvée is produced from a small plot of young vines and the vineyard claim the result is freshness, good acidity and distinct hints of fresh fruit. Serve it at 18 degrees and you’ll find “it perfectly accompanies cured meats, light pasta dishes courses and fresh cheeses”. Wine Folly suggests trying it with roasted and vegetable-driven dishes. I reckon our bottle would be just perfect with a Pepperoni Pizza!
The name Fisetta (which means fireworks in Piedmontese) stems from the small building (ciabot, in Piedmontese) found on the site, which belonged to a certain Berton, who, in an attempt to make his own fireworks, caused a fire. Even today, from the cellar you can see the ruins of the building after which the winery is named.
The aim at Cabot Berton is to produce wines that express their vineyard terroir, unique in each vintage and with the stamp of the family’s way of working. “These methods are primarily the use of organic techniques in order to attain and maintain equilibrium and healthy vines in the vineyards and an emphasis on slow ripening and allowing the grapes to hang as long as possible in order to achieve phenolic ripeness, especially for Nebbiolo.”
We enjoyed the Ciabot Berton Rutuin Dolcetto D’Alba (DOC) 2013 a few months back. Review here
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Best Value Wines 2022 Under €18.00. With Reviews & Irish Stockists.
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Top Wines 2022. With Reviews & Irish Stockists.
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