 |
| Mr Sugrue, of Sussex and Kilfinane. |
In Ockenden’s mahogany-lined bar… a wine list the thickness of a novel has two whole pages on Sussex, I order a glass of Sugrue’s Wiston Estate, which has a fine mousse and rapier-sharp acidity, its steely modernity a surprisingly good fit for these self-consciously retro surroundings: two sides of Englishness, and not an overcooked legume in sight. When we sit down for dinner, that acidity will cut beautifully through the oil of home-smoked mackerel with beetroot and horseradish…
from The Wandering Vine by Nina Caplan (2018). Very Highly Recommended.
No comments:
Post a Comment