Reds from the Edges
Thanks to the independents
Some unfamiliar grapes figure in these two excellent reds
from the edges of old Europe, one from Austria, the other from Portugal. Not
many of us, even if regular customers, will have heard of either the Blaufränkisch or the
Alfrocheiro. The names of these grapes, excellent in their original areas, are not an
advertiser’s dream (much easier to dream up a slogan for Merlot or Chardonnay).
But they survive, thanks primarily to the local winemakers
and thanks to the independent wine merchants, of which we have a fair share in
Ireland. They know, and more of their customers are coming to realise, that the
bigger picture is made up of little gems whose names may not lend themselves to
a catch-all slogan. Best of goods come in small parcels! (Not a bad slogan,
come to think of it.)
Wohlmuth Aristos 2009 Burgenland (Austria), 13.5%, €20.59
Karwig Wines
You won’t find Wohlmuth in Hugh Johnson’s current handbook
but, thankfully, you’ll find their wines in Karwig’s of Carrigaline. The
Aristos, a blend of the local Blaufränkisch and Cabernet Sauvignon, is a
product of the Neckenmarkt vineyard, one of a few owned by the Wohlmuth family,
winemakers since 1803. The “most rigorous quality criteria” are applied while
the terroir is regarded as ideal for the two varieties.
Austria is predominantly white wine country but it is a
different story in the Mittelburgenland (close to the border with Hungary).
Here the continental climate is ideal, especially for the juicy Blaufränkisch
which also brings relatively high acidity to a blend.
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Flor de Viseu, Tinto Selection 2009, Dao (Portugal), 13%,
€12.99-13.99, Wine Alliance stockists
Most people with a passing acquaintance of Portuguese wine
will have heard of Touriga Nacional but Alfrocheiro, the main grape here, will
no doubt raise a few eyebrows. Both are local grapes and popular in the Dao
region.
The region, named after the local river, is the home of juicy
friendly wines and this is one of them. You find red fruit aromas and a healthy
looking ruby colour. The wine itself is warm, fruity and spicy. It is rather
smooth with mild tannins, very engaging at all points of the palate and has a
persistent dry finish. Very Highly Recommended.
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