At 1057 metres: Token steps on the Pilgrim Path

La Posada

Auberge for pilgrims

Top of the pass Ibaneta

Bridge to citadel at St Jean

Roundabout St Jean

At 1057 metres: Token steps on the Pilgrim Path

Saturday June 2nd, More pics here
Saturday saw us head to the Pyrenees again, this time the “target” was Roncesvalles on the Spanish side, for hundreds of years a place of rest and refuge for the pilgrims on their way along the Camino to Santiago de Compostella, some 790 kilometres away from where we had a welcome lunch.

It wasn't he sunniest of days but temperatures would reach 31 as we made our way through the Basque countryside to another ancient town, St Jean Pied de Port, another Camino stop, this on the French side. Here we had a stroll around the old town, which is more or less contained within the citadel, yet another construction by the busy Vauban fellow!

The old bridge here is a focal point where tourists with our cameras gather, including today a bunch of young Americans, with perfect diction but oh so loud. Didn’t stop when they entered the ancient church with one boasting he was getting loads of photos for his Facebook page, so busy flashing in the shadows that he couldn’t be bothered to take off his baseball cap.

Had a good walk up the old town, saw the offers of accommodation for the current day pilgrims, of which we didn't see any here, and also strolled on the more or less intact ramparts.


Soon, we were on the road again. A much better road than I thought, this N135. Oh yes, there were bends galore and lots of S hook ones but generally they were of the gentler variety as indeed was the increase in altitude though the ears did pop as we climbed.

No sign of any border as, somewhere, we crossed into Spain, probably when we saw the first of the Ventas, big shopping centres near the French border. We passed them on the way up and then reached the summit at Ibaneta (1057m).

This pass and Roncesvalles, which is just down the road, is famous in history and legend for the defeat of Charlemagne and the death of Roland in 778, during the battle of Roncevaux Pass.

The pilgrim path runs alongside the road at this point but still there was a remarkable lack of pilgrims but we did see many racing cyclists, some training , others trying to recover their youth! Perhaps the pilgrims all converge in the evening as then, and only then, can you get their menu. We settled for a lovely sandwich and a refreshing beer La Posada before returning to France.

Made a stop at the last of Ventas: three supermarkets and two large two story buildings selling big name goods. Prices didn’t look that inviting, except in the drinks section. For example, a 1.5 litre bottle of Absolut Vodka cost €18.91.

Diverted to Cambo on the way home to call to a traiteur and pick up some Poulet Basque and Tabbouleh for dinner. And very nice it was also, accompanied by a bottle (strange shape) of 2009 Penascal Blanc (Verdejo) from Castilla y Leon.