A GAMBLE WITH THE ICE
The production of German Eiswein means the growers must take a gamble. At stake are grapes that are left on the vine longer than usual to wait for temperatures to drop to at least -7°C (19.4°F). The gamble went awry in 2006 when there was a total loss of the unpicked grapes, and next to no Eiswein was produced.
It was a different story two years earlier and I had the pleasure recently of sampling one of the successes of that year: Dexheimer Heimersheimer Sonnenberg Scheurebe Eiswein, 2004, ABV 9%, Karwig Wines (€20.18 for 37.5cl). *****
Scheurebe is the grape here. Bred in 1916 in Rheinhessen and named after its breeder, Georg Scheu, it is a crossing of Silvaner and Riesling. It ripens in early October, but the late-harvested wines of this grape are those that are treasured most.
The wine has a pale golden colour with a discreet white fruit aroma. It is beautiful in the mouth, wave after wave of sweetness balanced by a crisp citrusy acidity. It is very nicely balanced, with tasty, honeyed, silky fruit that give a superb and lasting finish.,
This fabulous wine, Qualitätswein mit Pradikat, is a winner of the "Goldene Kammerpreismunze".
Matching suggestions
(1) An ideal companion for fine desserts and blue cheeses or simply on its own.
(2) Desserts containing citrus, such as citrus fruit salads, Pavlovas, compote, caramelised tangerines. Not recommended with chocolate desserts.
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