Culchies on the Capital Culture Trail. Museums, Galleries, including Visual Poetry. The Photography Of John Minihan

 Cork Culchies on the Capital Culture Trail

Visual Poetry. The Photography Of John Minihan

The stairs at the National Gallery. Only the risers are coloured. So, you see the
colours as you go up, not as you descend.

We began our Dublin culture trek with a “serious” visit to the National Gallery and ended it with a laugh a minute roll through the National Wax Museum. In between, we visited the National Museum, The Museum of Literature Ireland (MoLI), and GPO.

We had just an hour to spare when we reached the Gallery in Merrion Square and headed straight up the stairs (there is no lift) to the Hugh Lane rooms and to the John Minihan Visual Poetry in particular.  Minihan, who Hot Press recently called a "quiet architect of cultural memory", was born in Dublin and raised in Athy and, at 16 years of age, began his photography career with the Daily Mail in London. Soon he was shooting the stars of the art world, of painting, music (Springsteen), and literature (most notably Samuel Beckett).

All the photos here are in black and white, which he regarded as the true colours of photography. While shots of the famous helped make his reputation, he never forgot his roots and regularly returned to Athy to photograph the local characters, a task he would replicate in West Cork in later years. 

Entitled “Visual Poetry”, it is an amazing exhibition and continues until October 11th. Much more info on this video here.

A few steps away, you’ll find the Gallery’s most famous painting, The Taking of Christ, by the Italian maestro Caravaggio.  Centuries between the Italian and Irish artists but Caravaggio’s technique of transfixing subjects in bright shafts of light and darkening shadows reminds me of Minihan’s Black and White. I’d like to think there’d have been a mutual bond between them had they met.

Look at that head of hair on the man from the bog. Pic taken on a previous visit.

Bodies From The Bog

We had promised ourselves a return visit to the magnificent National Museum (archaeology) in Kildare Street, We have been there a few times and still the magnificent dome inside the door took my breath away. Entrance is free, do pop in and take in that dome at least. There are 9 areas of interest (over 2 floors, no lift) and we had two in mind: Ireland's gold and Kingship & Sacrifice (where we found the bog bodies).

There were three on display, from the National Museum of Ireland collections - Gallagh Man, Co. Galway and Baronstown West Man, Co. Kildare and Croghan Man. 

The latter, an Offaly man, is dated to between 362 and 175 B.C. The Gallagh man is 470–120 BC while the Baronstown West guy is much more recent, dated to between AD 242 and 388. The Meathman, another of bodies recovered from Irish bogs, is dated between 700 and 400 BCE. And, yes, they found he had used hair gel. 

Also on the trip:

Two French Restaurants in Dublin 2

EPIC - Irish Emigration Museum

Three Dublin Cafes worth noting.

Bouef & Frites. Superb Steak

Culchies on the Capital Culture Trail.  Visual Poetry. The Photography Of John Minihan

Gold (this from Tipperary) forms part of the impressive collection at the National Museum

Award Winner Disappoints

at MoLI

I had long anticipated visiting Museum of Literature Ireland (MoLI) but left disappointed. The historic building has been beautifully restored and the rooms are magnificent. Aside from an extensive Joyce area, it barely scratches the surface of Irish literature. Inspiring quotes abound but memorabilia of the many Irish authors is scarce. All in all, for me it falls flat. 

The lovely Commons Room serves as a day time restaurant.

Wax Museum. For The Craic. And The Odd Screech!

Shadow of a gunman, Wax Museum

We had a very enjoyable visit to the National Wax Museum with surprises around every corner. Certainly in the Hall of Mirrors, where you’ll struggle to find your way, bumping up against yourself, sometimes shoulder to shoulder, in an almost disquieting way, a way that soon becomes frustrating. But, stick with it, if I can do it, so can you.

There’s a series of horror surprises but also family-friendly exhibits, fantasy zones and Irish history and a “musical pub” with some of our best known performers. Group options including schools, parties and murder mystery experiences. It is a lot of fun, within yards of O’Connell Bridge.

Lightfinger at the Wax Museum

Witness History

The GPO Witness History is located, in fairly cramped quarters, inside the historic building on O'Connell Street. So cramped that a guided tour will hold up the self-guiders.

Stamps issued in 2016 to commemorate the centenary of the Rising

Quite a bit of memorabilia from that pivotal week in April 1916, photos of the freedom fighters and tales of the dead, both old and young (2-year old Sean Francis Foster was shot in his pram - see stamp above).

Highlight is perhaps the 17 minute immersive film that runs frequently during the day. The fighters shout, bullets fly; noises comes from all sides and the rapid screen changes combine to make this dizzily immersive.

Time then to head to the peaceful Green Garden Kitchen cafe upstairs.

You can just turn up at many of Dublin's main attractions but other places including Old Kilmainham Gaol, the Rock 'n' Roll Museum, and EPIC should be booked in advance.

French Double in Dublin 2. La Maison and L’Gueuleton

 A French Double in Dublin. La Maison and L’Gueuleton

La Maison, Castle Market, Dublin 2 

L'Gueuleton, 1 Fade St, Dublin 2 

French dishes were very much on the menus when I visited two Dublin 2 restaurants in midweek (week before last). Just a two minute walk separates La Maison from L’Gueuleton in Dublin 2. But we did allow ourselves a day in between!

La Maison

Coq Au Vin

A warm welcome ensued as we came though the La Maison doors, and big smiles and good humour continued all the way through.

Here, they promise “the best of authentic French cuisine, crafted with passion and the finest locally sourced ingredients”. We started by sharing Coquilles Saint Jacques Façon La Maison and enjoyed their version of the classic scallop dish.

CL’s choice for mains was the Halibut Fillet, Halibut is a top fish and was much enhanced on they occasion by an accompaniment of Prawn Bisque, Braised Leeks, Cauliflower Purée, Sweetcorn, Cannellini Beans,Tarragon and Kilkee Crab. A stunning combination. 

Halibut

My Coq Au Vin Façon La Maison, is basically a stew and, like a few of the best known French dishes, is of peasant origin. The Chicken Breast is Braised in Red Wine, and served with Smoked Bacon Lardons, Mushrooms, Baby Onions, Roast Carrot, Pomme Purée. The hearty stew respected its roots and more than matched my memories of the dish from hols in Sarlat and other small French towns.

We were just too full for dessert; indeed a side of tenderstem broccoli was left largely intact. But the wines, both the Guadalmare Vermentino (Tuscany) 2022 and the Chateau Pascaud 2022 (Bordeaux Superieure), were both emptied.

L’Gueuleton

The following evening we were in L’Gueuleton - the word means a big, hearty feast. Another large restaurant and quite busy as was La Maison.

Bouillabaisse

I was tempted to try the John Dory (at 34 euro, as against 50 recently at Whitehorse in Ardmore). But decided to stay on the French track with the Provencal Fish Stew - Bouillabaisse - a very satisfying mix of Red Mullet, Salmon, John Dory, Gambas, Seared Scallops, New Potatoes, Cherry Tomatoes, Saffron Rouille, Grilled Sourdough Baguette.  

As with many French dishes, the accompaniments play a key role and they did here. And that was also the case with our other mains, the Roast Breast of Irish Chicken. (With Peas, Asparagus, Smoked Morteau Sausage, Morel and Chablis Sauce). Thumbs up!

We had begun with a shared Curried Mussel Vol au Vent, the mussels from the beautiful Killary Fjord in Connemara. Not the easiest dish to share but we managed it very well indeed! It was also half and half for the dessert, their Vanilla Crème Brûlée with Shortbread & Black Berries.

The Picpoul de Pinet (l'Etang de Sol) was the white, and quite a good match overall. Over the two nights, La Maison made the better impression but nothing much in it!

Also on the trip:

Two French Restaurants in Dublin 2

EPIC - Irish Emigration Museum

Three Dublin Cafes worth noting.

Bouef & Frites. Superb Steak

Culchies on the Capital Culture Trail.  Visual Poetry. The Photography Of John Minihan

Curried mussels Vol-a-vent

L’Gueuleton

EPIC - The Irish Emigration Museum. Where have all our people gone? And why?

EPIC - The Irish Emigration Museum

Where have all our people gone? And why?

From frailty and despair,

they went from strength to strength.

Once upon a time, in Dublin’s Custom House Quay (CHQ), the old (opened 1820) warehouse held some valuable imports, including casks of spirits and wine, under its vaulted roofs. Now, over 200 hears later, this historic structure holds EPIC , one of the top museums in Europe and, having featured in the internationally broadcast television series World’s Greatest! on Bloomberg Television, also regarded now as one of the best in the world.

The CHQ was also the scene, in 1856, of the “Great National Banquet’ to honour over 3600 veterans of the Crimean War. The vets, and a thousand or so guests, shared in the enormous meal. The drink allowance by the way was a quart of porter and a pint of choice port wine.

You start your visit by way of the Isle of Senses room. It is a gentle introduction to the journey, for there are twenty galleries in all. Your beginning is an immersion in the sights, sounds, and scents of the landscapes left behind. Listen to the falling rain, smell the peat burning in the fireplace, touch the basalt of the Giants Causeway.

You’ll soon see why millions of Irish left (many not voluntarily) and the diverse ways in which they travelled the oceans to reach near and faraway distinctions and the receptions (often hostile) that they received.

Many worked for change in their new world, some still do. They became famous as writers, artists and sportspeople. Think of people like Mother Jones (a fighter for women’s and human right in the USA). Then there’s Sarah “Fanny” Durack, an Olympic gold winner and world record holder for Australia at the 1912 Stockholm games. And Wexford born John Barry who, by the end of an distinguished career at sea and at war, was nicknamed the “Father of the Navy”, the US navy that is.

And, like every other nation on earth, we had our bad apples and you’ll meet someof those in the Gallery #13 named “Achieving Infamy”. Ned Kelly is one of the more notorious and pushed the Australian forces of law and order to the limit before being hanged in Melbourne in 1880. 

Mary Mallon, a native of Tyrone, was unfortunate to say the least. She was healthy but was diagnosed as a carrier of Typhoid and spent some 26 years in a New York isolation hospital. Though dozens were infected by Mallon (some of whom died) her incarceration remains controversial.

One room contains a multi-wall collage of many Irish people that left the country and many are well known such as Roy Keane. But I wonder what is that bag of Tayto crisps doing in his hand?  Is it because Taytos are also a successful export?

Roy & Tayto

Music and dance, eating and drinking, story telling, the GAA, and celebrations are all covered in other galleries. You get your passport on entry and can stamp it yourself in each of the galleries, just be sure you don’t miss one!

I’ve just scratched the surface here. Best to go there yourself and give it at least two hours, more if you need to trace ancestors or explore one of the regular exhibitions. Might be best to take a break at lunchtime, plenty of choice just outside the door, and come back again. You’ll enjoy that quart of porter and the pint of choice port wine later on!

* The informative well-illustrated guide book is ten euro (five if you pay online). I wonder why it was published in the UK and printed in Turkey?

Also on the trip:

Two French Restaurants in Dublin 2

EPIC - Irish Emigration Museum

Three Dublin Cafes worth noting.

Bouef & Frites. Superb Steak

Culchies on the Capital Culture Trail.  Visual Poetry. The Photography Of John Minihan

Dublin. Three Cafés Worth Noting in or near Museums

Cuppa by Cuppa in Dublin. 

Three Unheralded Cafés Worth Noting in or near Museums 

This is the narrowest point of the huge CHQ dining area. It widens considerably as you walk
further in with generous seating and a choices of cafes eager to feed you.

Just back from a whirlwind 4-day trip to Dublin, and my feet are still in recovery-mode, but my heart (and stomach) is full.

If you are planning a catch-up tour of the Fair City, prepare yourself for either a serious step-count or an enhanced Uber bill. We found a healthy mix of both worked a treat. Staying near St Stephen’s Green, we kept our radius manageable: wandering down through Temple Bar, crossing the Liffey to O’Connell Street, and dipping into the cultural gems of Kildare Street (including the nearby National Gallery that has its own bright and airy café).

Our longest trek was out to the spectacular EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum on Custom House Quay. We split the difference—smoothly cruising out there via a €12.83 Uber and enjoying a lazy, scenic stroll back to the centre.

When you're on the move between Dublin's heavy-hitter attractions, it does no harm to prepare a lunch plan. Did you know that some of the city's best culinary surprises are tucked right inside its modern museums?

Here are three smaller spots that served us incredibly well.

1. Tír Deli at EPIC (The CHQ Building)

The Vibe: A soaring, glass-roofed cathedral of casual food.

The History: This massive space once hosted a "Great National Banquet" in 1856 to honour 3,600 veterans of the Crimean War, while 1,000 civilian onlookers watched from a gallery above!

The Food: Today, the "battle" is simply choosing a lunch spot. Surrounded by strong competition like Seven Wonders and Bakehouse, Tír Deli got our vote for its dedication to seasonal Irish produce. Despite the post-museum rush, their efficient queueing system had us sorted in no time. We grabbed a piping hot tomato soup and a killer chicken sandwich, scored a seat right outside their door, and ate while the Dublin sunshine flooded through the glass overhead.

Green Kitchen's not too far
away from The Spire!

 2. The Green Kitchen Café at the GPO Museum

The Vibe: An oasis of pure joy hidden right off bustling O'Connell Street.

The Mission: This isn't just a café; it's a brilliant social enterprise partnering with the charity WALK. They provide meaningful training and employment opportunities for adults with intellectual disabilities and autism.

The Experience: The GPO Museum downstairs delivers a powerful, compact history of the 1916 Easter Rising. But when you step upstairs into this light-filled courtyard café, you are greeted by lots of space and smiles galore. We stopped in for a quick cuppa, but it was worth the visit just to catch a whiff of the absolute happiness that abounds here. Great food, great community, great cause.

3. The Commons Café at MoLI (Museum of Literature Ireland)

The Vibe: Literary elegance meets lingering lunchers.

The Secret: Tucked on the edge of St Stephen’s Green, this impressively renovated building features its own hidden entrance to the beautiful Iveagh Gardens out back. While the museum itself left us wondering exactly what the grand budget was spent on (it's beautiful, but light on exhibits unless you are a die-hard James Joyce fan), the café is an absolutely relaxing spot.

Reuben & soup at The Commons

The Food: Managed by Gather + Gather (whose Culinary Lead is Corkman Jack O'Keeffe), the service here was exceptionally warm. I thoroughly enjoyed a rich tomato soup paired with a classic Reuben, while CL found the Irish-sourced Kish smoked salmon to be just the job. Open 10am to 5pm daily, it's a perfect sanctuary from the city noise. And, if you fancy a post-prandial stroll, you've got the Iveagh Gardens at the rear, St Stephens Green at the front.

What About a "Big Lunch"?

A full sit-down lunch wasn't on our daily radar, though we had a spectacular one lined up at King Sitric in Howth until a sudden bug scuppered our plans! If you are looking for a heavier midday meal back in the city centre, add these to your notebook:

Lucio’s: (by Ross Lewis). Brilliant, but note they only do lunch on Thursdays!

L’Gueuleton: A fantastic French bistro option open every day.

The Vintage Kitchen: A beloved local gem for exceptional Irish cooking.

Urban Brewing: Located right next to EPIC in the CHQ vaults, serving up fantastic O’Hara’s brews and hearty bites.

Dublin is a city best devoured one neighbourhood—and one café—at a time. We barely scratched the surface in four days!

* We'll have info on evening dining in Dublin, including La Maison, in a soon to be published post.

** Also on the trip:

Two French Restaurants in Dublin 2

EPIC - Irish Emigration Museum

Three Dublin Cafes worth noting.

Bouef & Frites. Superb Steak

Culchies on the Capital Culture Trail.  Visual Poetry. The Photography Of John Minihan