French Double in Dublin 2. La Maison and L’Gueuleton

 A French Double in Dublin. La Maison and L’Gueuleton

La Maison, Castle Market, Dublin 2 

L'Gueuleton, 1 Fade St, Dublin 2 

French dishes were very much on the menus when I visited two Dublin 2 restaurants in midweek (week before last). Just a two minute walk separates La Maison from L’Gueuleton in Dublin 2. But we did allow ourselves a day in between!

La Maison

Coq Au Vin

A warm welcome ensued as we came though the La Maison doors, and big smiles and good humour continued all the way through.

Here, they promise “the best of authentic French cuisine, crafted with passion and the finest locally sourced ingredients”. We started by sharing Coquilles Saint Jacques Façon La Maison and enjoyed their version of the classic scallop dish.

CL’s choice for mains was the Halibut Fillet, Halibut is a top fish and was much enhanced on they occasion by an accompaniment of Prawn Bisque, Braised Leeks, Cauliflower Purée, Sweetcorn, Cannellini Beans,Tarragon and Kilkee Crab. A stunning combination. 

Halibut

My Coq Au Vin Façon La Maison, is basically a stew and, like a few of the best known French dishes, is of peasant origin. The Chicken Breast is Braised in Red Wine, and served with Smoked Bacon Lardons, Mushrooms, Baby Onions, Roast Carrot, Pomme Purée. The hearty stew respected its roots and more than matched my memories of the dish from hols in Sarlat and other small French towns.

We were just too full for dessert; indeed a side of tenderstem broccoli was left largely intact. But the wines, both the Guadalmare Vermentino (Tuscany) 2022 and the Chateau Pascaud 2022 (Bordeaux Superieure), were both emptied.

L’Gueuleton

The following evening we were in L’Gueuleton - the word means a big, hearty feast. Another large restaurant and quite busy as was La Maison.

Bouillabaisse

I was tempted to try the John Dory (at 34 euro, as against 50 recently at Whitehorse in Ardmore). But decided to stay on the French track with the Provencal Fish Stew - Bouillabaisse - a very satisfying mix of Red Mullet, Salmon, John Dory, Gambas, Seared Scallops, New Potatoes, Cherry Tomatoes, Saffron Rouille, Grilled Sourdough Baguette.  

As with many French dishes, the accompaniments play a key role and they did here. And that was also the case with our other mains, the Roast Breast of Irish Chicken. (With Peas, Asparagus, Smoked Morteau Sausage, Morel and Chablis Sauce). Thumbs up!

We had begun with a shared Curried Mussel Vol au Vent, the mussels from the beautiful Killary Fjord in Connemara. Not the easiest dish to share but we managed it very well indeed! It was also half and half for the dessert, their Vanilla Crème Brûlée with Shortbread & Black Berries.

The Picpoul de Pinet (l'Etang de Sol) was the white, and quite a good match overall. Over the two nights, La Maison made the better impression but nothing much in it!

Curried mussels Vol-a-vent

L’Gueuleton

EPIC - The Irish Emigration Museum. Where have all our people gone? And why?

EPIC - The Irish Emigration Museum

Where have all our people gone? And why?

From frailty and despair,

they went from strength to strength.

Once upon a time, in Dublin’s Custom House Quay (CHQ), the old (opened 1820) warehouse held some valuable imports, including casks of spirits and wine, under its vaulted roofs. Now, over 200 hears later, this historic structure holds EPIC , one of the top museums in Europe and, having featured in the internationally broadcast television series World’s Greatest! on Bloomberg Television, also regarded now as one of the best in the world.

The CHQ was also the scene, in 1856, of the “Great National Banquet’ to honour over 3600 veterans of the Crimean War. The vets, and a thousand or so guests, shared in the enormous meal. The drink allowance by the way was a quart of porter and a pint of choice port wine.

You start your visit by way of the Isle of Senses room. It is a gentle introduction to the journey, for there are twenty galleries in all. Your beginning is an immersion in the sights, sounds, and scents of the landscapes left behind. Listen to the falling rain, smell the peat burning in the fireplace, touch the basalt of the Giants Causeway.

You’ll soon see why millions of Irish left (many not voluntarily) and the diverse ways in which they travelled the oceans to reach near and faraway distinctions and the receptions (often hostile) that they received.

Many worked for change in their new world, some still do. They became famous as writers, artists and sportspeople. Think of people like Mother Jones (a fighter for women’s and human right in the USA). Then there’s Sarah “Fanny” Durack, an Olympic gold winner and world record holder for Australia at the 1912 Stockholm games. And Wexford born John Barry who, by the end of an distinguished career at sea and at war, was nicknamed the “Father of the Navy”, the US navy that is.

And, like every other nation on earth, we had our bad apples and you’ll meet someof those in the Gallery #13 named “Achieving Infamy”. Ned Kelly is one of the more notorious and pushed the Australian forces of law and order to the limit before being hanged in Melbourne in 1880. 

Mary Mallon, a native of Tyrone, was unfortunate to say the least. She was healthy but was diagnosed as a carrier of Typhoid and spent some 26 years in a New York isolation hospital. Though dozens were infected by Mallon (some of whom died) her incarceration remains controversial.

One room contains a multi-wall collage of many Irish people that left the country and many are well known such as Roy Keane. But I wonder what is that bag of Tayto crisps doing in his hand?  Is it because Taytos are also a successful export?

Roy & Tayto

Music and dance, eating and drinking, story telling, the GAA, and celebrations are all covered in other galleries. You get your passport on entry and can stamp it yourself in each of the galleries, just be sure you don’t miss one!

I’ve just scratched the surface here. Best to go there yourself and give it at least two hours, more if you need to trace ancestors or explore one of the regular exhibitions. Might be best to take a break at lunchtime, plenty of choice just outside the door, and come back again. You’ll enjoy that quart of porter and the pint of choice port wine later on!

* The informative well-illustrated guide book is ten euro (five if you pay online). I wonder why it was published in the UK and printed in Turkey?

Dublin. Three Cafés Worth Noting in or near Museums

Cuppa by Cuppa in Dublin. 

Three Unheralded Cafés Worth Noting in or near Museums 

This is the narrowest point of the huge CHQ dining area. It widens considerably as you walk
further in with generous seating and a choices of cafes eager to feed you.

Just back from a whirlwind 4-day trip to Dublin, and my feet are still in recovery-mode, but my heart (and stomach) is full.

If you are planning a catch-up tour of the Fair City, prepare yourself for either a serious step-count or an enhanced Uber bill. We found a healthy mix of both worked a treat. Staying near St Stephen’s Green, we kept our radius manageable: wandering down through Temple Bar, crossing the Liffey to O’Connell Street, and dipping into the cultural gems of Kildare Street (including the nearby National Gallery that has its own bright and airy café).

Our longest trek was out to the spectacular EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum on Custom House Quay. We split the difference—smoothly cruising out there via a €12.83 Uber and enjoying a lazy, scenic stroll back to the centre.

When you're on the move between Dublin's heavy-hitter attractions, it does no harm to prepare a lunch plan. Did you know that some of the city's best culinary surprises are tucked right inside its modern museums?

Here are three smaller spots that served us incredibly well.

1. Tír Deli at EPIC (The CHQ Building)

The Vibe: A soaring, glass-roofed cathedral of casual food.

The History: This massive space once hosted a "Great National Banquet" in 1856 to honour 3,600 veterans of the Crimean War, while 1,000 civilian onlookers watched from a gallery above!

The Food: Today, the "battle" is simply choosing a lunch spot. Surrounded by strong competition like Seven Wonders and Bakehouse, Tír Deli got our vote for its dedication to seasonal Irish produce. Despite the post-museum rush, their efficient queueing system had us sorted in no time. We grabbed a piping hot tomato soup and a killer chicken sandwich, scored a seat right outside their door, and ate while the Dublin sunshine flooded through the glass overhead.

Green Kitchen's not too far
away from The Spire!

 2. The Green Kitchen Café at the GPO Museum

The Vibe: An oasis of pure joy hidden right off bustling O'Connell Street.

The Mission: This isn't just a café; it's a brilliant social enterprise partnering with the charity WALK. They provide meaningful training and employment opportunities for adults with intellectual disabilities and autism.

The Experience: The GPO Museum downstairs delivers a powerful, compact history of the 1916 Easter Rising. But when you step upstairs into this light-filled courtyard café, you are greeted by lots of space and smiles galore. We stopped in for a quick cuppa, but it was worth the visit just to catch a whiff of the absolute happiness that abounds here. Great food, great community, great cause.

3. The Commons Café at MoLI (Museum of Literature Ireland)

The Vibe: Literary elegance meets lingering lunchers.

The Secret: Tucked on the edge of St Stephen’s Green, this impressively renovated building features its own hidden entrance to the beautiful Iveagh Gardens out back. While the museum itself left us wondering exactly what the grand budget was spent on (it's beautiful, but light on exhibits unless you are a die-hard James Joyce fan), the café is an absolutely relaxing spot.

Reuben & soup at The Commons

The Food: Managed by Gather + Gather (whose Culinary Lead is Corkman Jack O'Keeffe), the service here was exceptionally warm. I thoroughly enjoyed a rich tomato soup paired with a classic Reuben, while CL found the Irish-sourced Kish smoked salmon to be just the job. Open 10am to 5pm daily, it's a perfect sanctuary from the city noise. And, if you fancy a post-prandial stroll, you've got the Iveagh Gardens at the rear, St Stephens Green at the front.

What About a "Big Lunch"?

A full sit-down lunch wasn't on our daily radar, though we had a spectacular one lined up at King Sitric in Howth until a sudden bug scuppered our plans! If you are looking for a heavier midday meal back in the city centre, add these to your notebook:

Lucio’s: (by Ross Lewis). Brilliant, but note they only do lunch on Thursdays!

L’Gueuleton: A fantastic French bistro option open every day.

The Vintage Kitchen: A beloved local gem for exceptional Irish cooking.

Urban Brewing: Located right next to EPIC in the CHQ vaults, serving up fantastic O’Hara’s brews and hearty bites.

Dublin is a city best devoured one neighbourhood—and one café—at a time. We barely scratched the surface in four days!

* We'll have info on evening dining in Dublin, including La Maison, in a soon to be published post.

** Also on this trip:

The lively Bouef & Frites in Temple Bar.

METROPOLE HOTEL TO HOST UNIQUE EVENING OF FRENCH FOOD AND FILM

press release

THE METROPOLE HOTEL TO HOST UNIQUE EVENING OF FRENCH FOOD AND FILM 

Historic Cork city hotel partners with Alliance Française de Cork for “Projection Gourmande”

Alex Petit

The Metropole Hotel in Cork city is partnering with Alliance Française de Cork for a unique event that celebrates the rich flavours and traditions of French cuisine and cinema.

“Projection Gourmande” is an immersive dining experience curated by Alliance Française de Cork President Valérie David-McGonnell alongside Trigon Hotels’ French Executive Chef Alex Petit.

The event takes place on Friday, October 9th from 7.00pm to 10.30pm in the hotel’s recently renovated Douglas Vance Suite.

Guests will enjoy a specially designed four-course meal inspired by regional dishes from across France. This will be followed by a screening of Sébastien Tulard’s 2023 acclaimed French film Sugar & Stars, a heartwarming story centred on the journey of a young French chef pursuing his culinary dreams. 

Alex Petit said: “I’m really excited about this menu as it gives the team of chefs at the Metropole Hotel a fantastic opportunity to use locally sourced ingredients and give them a French twist. In designing the menu, I was inspired by some of the most-loved dishes from my home country such as soufflé and Bouillabaisse. It is a privilege to team up with Alliance Française de Cork which has been instrumental in some memorable events in Cork in recent years and I have no doubt that Projection Gourmande will be one of those unique experiences for food and film fans.”

Valérie David-McGonnell added: “There is a great appetite for French film in Cork and we are delighted to partner with Alex and the team at the Metropole for this event. Alex is a fantastic chef and has designed a wonderful menu that can be enjoyed in the intimate setting of the Douglas Vance suite followed by the screening of the highly acclaimed Sugar & Stars, a real French cinematic treat.”

The menu includes:

Starter

Ficelle Picarde

or
Soufflé au Comté

Main Course

Boeuf Bourguignon
or
Bouillabaisse

Cheese Course

Irish Cheese Plate
Brie de Meaux, Ossau-Iraty, Sainte-Maure

Dessert

Crème Brûlée
or
Tarte Tatin with Vanilla Ice Cream

Tickets are from €90.81 and are available on Eventbrite https://www.eventbrite.ie/e/projection-gourmande-tickets-1990569071678?aff=od

Boeuf et Frites. Two track menu! All about the beef and the buzz at this friendly fast-paced Temple Bar venue.

Boeuf et Frites. Two track menu!

All about the beef and the buzz at this friendly fast-paced Temple Bar venue.

Boeuf et Frites  has a central Temple Bar location. It features exposed brick and chandeliers, and serves prime Irish steak or chicken with unlimited garlic bread and bottomless frites. And that’s about it apart from a solo dessert offering.

Despite the chandeliers and the old style gilt framed landscapes, this is a lively venue and also a very popular one, so best to book before you go. Our visit on a Monday night saw the venue packed.

We were escorted to our seats and, even before we got settled, that Warm French baguette with roast garlic butter starter was served. And, don’t worry, more arrived on our table in minutes.

Service is fast for sure but it is also very friendly and helpful and there’s a great atmosphere here.The first choice you have to make is either go chicken or steak. You may have Irish chargrilled half chicken — rosemary, thyme & garlic, red wine gravy or Chargrilled peri peri half chicken — lemon and chilli peri peri sauce, each served with Caesar leaves and bottomless frites. CL picked the first option, absolutely delicious, perfectly cooked. Hard to beat that one, though I'm sure the Peri Peri would have been fine also. 

My options were the 7oz Prime Irish Fillet  or 10oz Prime Irish Striploin. Six sauces were offered and my pick was the fillet with the Red Wine Jus. Some of the other sauces were Brandy Peppercorn, Classic Béarnaise, and Mushroom. Like the chicken, the chosen fillet came with Caesar leaves and bottomless fries (and yes, extra fries were regularly volunteered).

All the while, we were sipping from a Malbec (Languedoc) at €9.50 a glass, Aromatic and full bodied, it was very much at home here and very much appreciated. Despite the lively pace, there was no rush at all when it came to the dessert: Profiteroles with warm chocolate sauce. In any case, the tempting dessert was rather swiftly dispatched!

Back at Hotel Marlin, I was delighted to see Wicklow Wolf Elevation Pale and a series of Teeling whiskey available in the bar. Over the week, that beer became our friend, of course we knew it well from previous occasions, but it is that little bit better on draught as was the case here. The Teeling Whiskey was, as you’d expect, top class, and the trio sipped were Small Batch, Single Grain and Single Malt. Cheers!

Also on this trip:

Food at Dublin Museums and Galleries.

The O'Briens Wine Fest Returns to Cork! Hayfield Manor is the new venue.

The O'Briens Wine Fest Returns to Cork! 

Hayfield Manor is the new venue.

The O’Briens wine festival, a regular feature of late autumn in Cork until Covid struck, makes a welcome return next month (Oct 8) with no less than 20 winemakers present and showcasing their portfolios. Hayfield Manor is the new venue and you may get your tickets at O'Briens in Douglas. Sounds like a good one!

Chilli Con Carne and the mute robotic serving assistant get the attention at The Barn

Chilli Con Carne and the silent robotic serving assistant get the attention at The Barn

Chilli Con Carne

Once upon a time, not so long ago, the Barn was a by-word for old fashioned courtesy, superb service and generous portions of well-cooked and presented food, with soft piano music in the background. If you wanted to contact it on online six or seven years ago, you’d find it almost impossible.

Then came Covid. For 40 years, The Barn has served dinner and Sunday lunch to the people of Cork.  After Covid and huge slow-paced renovations, they decided for the first time ever, to open for breakfast, brunch and dinner.

The robotic assistant

And the new generation was internet savvy and you could, and can, find out all you need to know about times and menus online. Order and pay by QR from your table (no cash, by the way). 

And they also have a robot. Not quite a server but more an assistant that brings your dish to the table, and your server  (human!) completes the task by taking the dish from the "robot" and placing it in front of you as before.

Automobiles roll in every morning of the week at 8.30am for the expansive Breakfast and Brunch menus and it continues all day long with enticing Lunch and (most recently) Evening offerings. The post-Covid formula proved an instant hit and that expanded carpark is often close to full during a typical day. 

Breakfast is served until 11.30am. You may start with Granola or Porridge, lots of egg dishes available also, as well as the Full Barn.

Brunch runs from 8.30pm to 4.00pm and the offerings are along classic lines including Eggs Benedict and Eggs Royale and also pancakes and waffles along with tea and coffee of course, hot chocolate too.

The menu for the day is in magazine format, colourful and informative.
This is just the egg dishes.

The award-winning carvery runs from noon until 7.00pm and it is rather splendid with all kinds of meats, vegetables, and sauces available in generous quantities. 

Our most recent visit saw CL choose the carvery. She picked the turkey (with stuffing) and, from quite a list, creamy cauliflower, mashed and roast potato and carrots. By the way, you have to go and get the carvery yourself, no robotic help.

But my main dish did come by robot. Five foot tall or so, it moves, smoothly and silently, up the aisles in a white trim, doesn’t say a word but stops right by your table. The "wired-up" server arrived, from a different direction, more or less simultaneously, and put my Chilli Con Carne on the table in front of me.

I didn't get a comment on the rpbot but our server told me earlier that my dish was very popular. They use an “authentic traditional recipe” with the best ground beef and beans and a choice of rice or chips or both. 

On first bite, it seemed to be very spicy indeed but I soon got into the swing of things and found it very enjoyable overall. I had picked half rice and half fries; next time, I’ll go all rice as the chips were on the hard side.

Honeycomb Charlotte

Not a carvery fan? No worries. You may choose from Salads, Burgers, Fish and Chips, Sandwiches, Pizza and Pasta dishes, with no shortage of sides. Look out for the Jack McCarthy Black Pudding Salad, with Roasted Walnuts, Boiled Egg, Baby Spinach & Home-made Bacon and Apple Jam.

And, after all that, you have about ten desserts to choose from! We did choose one (for sharing), the sweeter than sweet Honeycomb Charlotte, white chocolate, fresh cream and honeycomb, decorated with silky caramel and honeycomb.

An all-weather extension (retractable roof) with views over the fields towards Glanmire

The Barn's restaurant space is huge, up to 300 covers. There is an large outdoor dining area which is enclosed, by glass, in winter (with expansive views of the nearby countryside). Plenty of life inside here in the Barn, people talking, servers constantly moving, perhaps not as much as before thanks to their silent assistant! You may also see examples of this new tech in the Briar Rose and the Marina Market.