Emiliana Novas Riesling Gran Reserva. Stunningly complex and a real deal at this price!

Emiliana Novas Riesling Gran Reserva 2021 Val Del Bio Bio (DC) Chile, 13.50% ABV

€16.95 O’Briens Wine

stunningly complex and a real deal at this price!

This organic Chilean Riesling from Bio Bio* is clear golden yellow in colour. It features lifted aromas of apple, pear, and lime, a waft of diesel (common in Rieslings wines the Bio Bio Valley, one of Chile’s most southern wine regions) and a hint of honeysuckle sweetness.

The palate is full of flavour, but the limey acidity helps maintain balance through to the persistent finish. This expressive wine is Highly Recommended. While the diesel aroma can be off-putting in some Rieslings, it is very modest here and not bothersome at all.

According to O’Briens, with its fresh acidity, this off-dry style Riesling pairs perfectly with Asian cuisine. It also complements oysters, shellfish, white meats, smoked salmon, and vegetarian dishes.

Emiliana is the world’s largest organic winery, noted for its Cabernet Sauvignon. The Guilisasti family, a significant shareholder in Concha Y Toro, is the majority shareholder here.

Riesling is far from being the most popular white wine in South America. Chile leads with 820 acres, while Argentina has 219. These figures are minuscule compared to Germany, which grows over 60,000 acres, about 40% of world production. 

* Bio Bio is in Chile’s most southern wine area. A little further on, you’ll see penguins and icebergs. In the cool Bio Bio, the most popular grapes grown are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It is now being recognised, according to Wines of South America, as "an excellent spot for the aromatic white varieties, notably Riesling". Our bottle delivers further proof of the statement.

Market Lane Knows Its Onions

 Market Lane Knows Its Onions

I’ve been enjoying the French Onion Soup at Market Lane since 2009. The current version, featuring Coolea cheese and sourdough croutons, is one of the best yet and was served as a fantastic starter during my lunch last week at the Oliver Plunkett Street location.

This enjoyable experience got me thinking about how many Irish restaurants serve this famous dish, which Raymond Blanc describes as “a Frenchman’s heaven.” 

At the market!

He shares a few tips for making the soup, which originated in eighteenth-century Paris as a beef broth topped with caramelised onions. Now often served without the beef, Raymond emphasises that the quality of the onions is crucial. He prefers using Rose de Roscoff onions and suggests floating croutons on top with some grated two-year-old Comté cheese.

Raymond, a renowned chef at Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons—a hotel restaurant in Great Milton, Oxfordshire—is one of many supporters of this iconic soup. 

Chicken

Delia Smith enthuses: “If ever there was a winter stomach warmer, this is surely it! There are few things more comforting than making a real French onion soup—slowly cooked, caramelised onions that turn mellow and sweet in a broth laced with white wine and Cognac.”

I sourced some Roscoff onions from Bryn Perrin of West Cork Garlic a few years ago at the weekly Friday market in Bantry. Back home, we combined a recipe from Nigel Slater with one from an undated French cookbook, *A Taste of France*. The soup, topped with baguette slices and Gruyère cheese, was a delight—packed with enticing aromas and satisfying flavors.

In earlier years, Market Lane used Gruyère for the cheese, but I’m glad they now choose Coolea. In 2015, Kate Lawlor, then chef/patron at Fenn's Quay, used Gubbeen cheese with her croutons.

Crispy Duck

At that time, the Market Lane French Onion Soup cost €5.95, but it is now ten euros. It's still worth every cent and remains delicious, full of standout flavours; I especially love the added Coolea cheese and croutons. I’ll always be on the lookout for that one.

Last week, I was also eager to try a newer dish—Arroz Marinera, which features bomba rice, prawns, mussels, squid, haddock, leeks, and white wine, accompanied by garlic aioli and crispy toast. It had been highlighted on their Instagram on Wednesday, but unfortunately, it wasn’t available during Thursday’s service.

This meant a second look at the menu and a change of plans. I considered the Korean bulgogi steak sandwich served on a sourdough baguette with chilli, sesame and soy marinade, carrots, spring onions, and lime mayo with house chips (below). I had enjoyed it relatively recently and can recommend it.

Korean bulgogi steak sandwich

Ultimately, I chose their Five-Spiced Crispy Duck in a brioche bun with cabbage, pak choi, carrot slaw, hoisin aioli, and house chips, which turned out to be delicious. The spice was noticeable but not overpowering.

Meanwhile, CL was delighted with her Roast Marinated Chicken, accompanied by thyme-buttered root vegetables, braised cabbage, creamy mash, and gravy. Although it wasn't groundbreaking, these classic dishes can sometimes be just as satisfying as more modern offerings.

Both plates were filling, leaving little room for dessert—certainly not for the generously portion of Orange and Vanilla Bread and Butter Pudding served with custard and whipped cream, a long-standing favourite here.

Lastly, I want to commend all the servers. It was a busy lunchtime, and they handled everything superbly throughout the service.

Beer of the Week: Whitefield Old Smoke Porter. Explore its dark, delightful depths.

Beer of the Week: Whitefield Old Smoke Porter, 5.4% ABV

500 ml bottle Bradleys

Explore the dark, delightful depths of an exceptional brew!

Delve into the dark depths of Whitefield’s Old Smoke porter, an exceptional brew by Cuilán Loughnane that stands as a testament to the art of balance in craft beer. 

With its pitch-black pour and tantalising smoky aroma accented with a hint of bacon, this beer invites you into a world where every sip is a joy. The mastery of blending mellow roasted flavours with subtle smokiness results in a drinking experience that's both complex and harmoniously balanced. That’s why this standout porter has earned our Beer of the Week title and a Very Highly Recommended rating.

Whitefield says:  Traditionally, beers made in the midlands would have had a slight smokiness due to the malt being dried from peat fires; this stout brings out that combination of smoke and roast while remaining light on the palate. Beer is a fantastic ingredient to use in cooking (and baking). A family favourite is an Old Smoke Stout Stew. 

Smoked beer is mostly associated with Germany and the beautiful city of Bamburg. Here, two breweries, Schlenkerla (widely available in Ireland) and Spezial (not as often seen in Ireland), continue the centuries-old tradition and cross-town rivalry. Another German tradition is Schwarzbier, a black beer without the smoke! 

Whitefield (formerly White Gypsy) is a brewery in Templemore, County Tipperary. Cuilán Loughnane is the main person here, and according to Sláinte  (2014), his fingerprints “are all over the Irish brewing scene”.

Sláinte also outlines his prior experience, starting at Dwan’s Brewery (Thurles) in 1997. He then served as head brewer at Dublin’s Messrs Maguire (predecessors of J.W. Sweetman) from 2002 before establishing his own venture as White Gypsy in 2009. White Gypsy was renamed Whitefield a couple of years back.

 press release 

hotelsxmas24

Celebrate the magic of the holiday season this December at The College Green Hotel Dublin.

Package Overview

·       Festive Splendour is valid from Sunday, December 1^st, to Sunday, 22nd. It includes luxurious overnight accommodation, a welcome seasonal drink in The Atrium Lounge or The Mint Bar, and a delicious breakfast at Morelands Grill before departure. Prices start from € 395 for a Double room per night.

 

To book your December stay, contact reservations@thecollegegreendublin.com

 

¨     December in Dublin is rather magical. From twinkling lights and atmospheric stores to buzzing nightlife, it’s the place to soak up the festive feels. What better place to stay than in the heart of the city at the luxuriously located five-star The College Green Hotel Dublin, Autograph Collection (formerly The Westin, Dublin)?

Famous for its extraordinary Christmas lights and décor, this beautiful hotel is offering a rather special overnight experience from Sunday, December 1^st, to Sunday, December 22^nd, inclusive, for those looking to shop, entertain, or be entertained. Grab your partner, treat your mum or best pal, or round up the troops and book a magical night away.

December in the city is buzzing with a whirlwind of events, from captivating theatre performances to delightful family pantomimes and spectacular concerts.  The hotel is ideally located, overlooking Trinity College and a short stroll to the atmospheric Grafton Street, where you can enjoy the incredible ambience and shop for all your Christmas gifting needs. Here, too, you can gaze at the incredible Dublin Winter Lights installations, which transform the city with epic light features on iconic landmarks, buildings and bridges, where people of all generations can bask in the glow of specially commissioned dynamic, colourful and imaginative light projections by leading artists.

Upon check-in, you will be welcomed into the hotel's impressive lobby, adorned with beautifully lit trees, ornate decorations, and warm lighting. From there, you will be escorted to your luxurious accommodation to start your relaxing break. Before exploring the city's nightlife, you can enjoy a complimentary drink in The Atrium Lounge or in the charming Mint Bar. After a night out, return to the comfort of your stunning room, featuring characteristic Irish décor. Each room offers modern comforts and special touches, such as luxury bathrobes, slippers, and Italian marble bathrooms with a rainfall shower and a separate tub for two. Guests can also savour a new exclusive bespoke tea offering in the comfort of their rooms, which is a sophisticated blend of Darjeeling, elderflower, and lemon verbena. Spend the morning relaxing in the luxury of your room before enjoying a delicious breakfast in Morelands Grill before departure.

Festive Splendour is valid from 1st December until 22nd December, with luxurious overnight accommodation, a welcome drink in The Atrium Lounge or Mint Bar, and a delicious breakfast at Morelands Grill before departure, double from €395 per night.

ALL ABOARD FOR THE FESTIVE FOODIE EXPERIENCE AT THE GLENLO ABBEY HOTEL & ESTATE

Overnight package from €339 per room to include

¨     One night's luxurious accommodation

¨     A la carte breakfast each morning for two people

¨     Festive Foodie Experience in The Pullman Kitchen

 

5* Glenlo Abbey Hotel Galway has created a rather special experience for those looking to elevate their hosting skills for the holiday season.

From 8th November to 23rd December (Wednesday-Sunday stays only), the award-winning culinary team will take you behind the scenes to demonstrate various techniques and share recipes for you to replicate at home to impress everyone during the season. The Festive Foodie package includes a luxury overnight stay and a delicious breakfast before departure. 

The experience will operate each Wednesday to Sunday from noon for 45 minutes in The Pullman Kitchen, the beating heart of The Pullman Restaurant, comprised of two original carriages from the Orient Express, beautifully restored and set on the grounds of the hotel. Converted into a wonderful restaurant car retaining all its original character, this historic Pullman train carriage resided at Elsenham Station in Hertfordshire, England, before joining the many varied facilities already available at Glenlo Abbey Hotel & Estate Galway. Once aboard The Pullman Kitchen, guests will see the chefs prepare a selection of beautifully presented canapés with seasonal flair and demonstrate how to create the perfect brine for turkey, highlighting the importance of seasoning tips and their impact on the finished dish! They will also provide a step-by-step guide to making chutney with Christmas spices to complement a carefully selected cheese board and a seasonal cake to finish off the occasion. Full recipe cards will be available for guests to take home, with a delicious jar of Christmas chutney to savour over the holidays and a Glenlo Abbey embroidered apron to remember the day and use with pride in your kitchen.

Glenlo Abbey Hotel & Estate is one of Ireland's most luxurious hotels, a proud member of Ireland's Blue Book, small luxury hotels, and part of the Irish-owned and managed MHL Hotel Collection. It is just two miles from Galway City and boasts magnificent views overlooking Lough Corrib on a 138-acre estate.

Glenlo Abbey’s Team will be delighted to assist you with any queries by telephone at Tel Intl +353 (0) 91 519600. Or Email: stay@glenloabbey.ie

Alternatively, visit www.glenloabbeyhotel.ie for more information or to purchase gift vouchers online.  

FESTIVE DINING AT THE LIMERICK STRAND HOTEL

THE MUNSTER MILE MENU

River Restaurant and Bar

 

A warm, festive welcome awaits you at the award-winning River Bar &  Restaurant at The Limerick Strand Hotel offering a magical setting for 2024 seasonal dining.

They take their food very seriously at The Limerick Strand Hotel, and Executive Head Chef Paddy Anslow is unconditionally supportive of all things local. He is always on the lookout for new local suppliers and gives a helping hand to small artisan producers. Passion for their location is evident on all menus, and for more than 10 years, they have been at the forefront of the ‘farm to fork’ and traceability food evolution.  NEW for the 2024 season is their “Munster Mile” menu, where dishes noted with an M logo are made with 100% Munster-only goods, celebrating its rich agricultural traditions and diverse range of local produce. By using fresh, high-quality, seasonal food and partnering with provincial farms and dairies wherever possible, they ensure that guests enjoy a taste of the nearby Wild Atlantic Way in the heart of the Golden Vale.

The Limerick Strand Hotel has been the heartbeat of Christmas in the city for more years than they care to remember. It is by far the most popular and atmospheric venue for generational gatherings, fun party nights, and reconnecting with family and friends over the festive season. For those looking to enjoy the run-up to Christmas in style, a delicious Festive Afternoon Tea, seasonal lunch, or dinner at the award-winning River Bar & Restaurant is the perfect choice. There’s no better place to enjoy a cocktail after a hard day’s gift shopping or to treat your nearest and dearest to a delectable feast. Throughout December, on weekends, the River Bar & Restaurant plays host to some local talent, with live entertainment adding an uplifting atmosphere to your dining occasion.

The Limerick Strand Hotel is the perfect spot to enjoy your Festive Afternoon Tea while overlooking the River Shannon and the twinkling lights of the city. Indulge in a three-tiered platter of exquisite finger sandwiches, served alongside freshly baked warm award-winning scones, clotted cream and jam, and a selection of festive pastries and treats expertly created by the in-house pastry team. Available daily in December from 2 pm to 4 pm at €36 per adult and €16.95 per child.

To avoid disappointment, why not book ahead and secure a table to enjoy their famous group festive lunch and dinner options available from Tuesday, November 22nd to Sunday, December 24th? Lunch Menu is available 7 days a week, from 12 pm to 4 pm, at €42 per person for 3 Courses or €37 per person for 2 Courses. The 3-course Festive Dinner Menu is also available 7 days a week, priced at €53 or €48 for a 2-course option per person. The festive menus are available for group bookings only (10+ people) from Monday to Saturday.

The amazing Festive Sunday Lunch is available from Sunday, November 24th. This delicious 4-course Sunday Lunch Buffet features a festive twist to get you in the mood for merriment! Arrive in style as you are greeted by the expert team with a glass of bubbly or mulled wine before enjoying your sumptuous buffet feast. Rumour has it that the big man himself will pay a special visit each Sunday. Reservations are available from 1 pm to 5 pm and include a glass of mulled wine or prosecco on arrival for adults and a selection box for each child. The experience costs €39.50 per adult and €16.95 per child (kids under 5 years old go free).

Booking is strongly advised for all Festive Dining Experiences. Bookings can be made online or via reservation call 061 421800 or email reservations@strandlimerick.ie.

Locals can enjoy the famously festive 4 course Christmas Eve Luncheon in the Shannon Suite with live music from Limerick’s renowned crooner, Liam O’Brien. There’s also a magic show and a meet & greet with the main man himself, Santa Claus! Choice of buffet lunch and family entertainment from €55 per adult €25 per child (kids under 5 years go free) or enjoy a select lunch or dinner menu at The River Bar & Restaurant. On Christmas Day, there is a festive dining package (€175 per adult, child 5-12 yrs €70, with under 5 dining free of charge, excludes Santa gift) complete with live music by crooner Liam O’Brien and singer Jayne Frazer plus a gift for each child. Advanced booking and pre-payment are required.

For details on Christmas 2023 at The Limerick Strand Hotel, please see

Christmas. To make a reservation, call 061 421800 or Christmas@strandlimerick.ie. Visit www.strandlimerick.ie.

 

Calling All Aspiring Chefs! Bag your hands-on experience opportunity at Trigon Hotels' Open Kitchen Week.

Calling All Aspiring Chefs! Bag your hands-on experience at Trigon Hotels' Open Kitchen Week.

Alex Petit 

Do you dream of whipping up culinary masterpieces in a professional kitchen? Well, aspiring chefs in Cork, this is your chance to realise those dreams!

The renowned Trigon Hotel Group is opening its kitchens for Open Kitchen Week, a unique initiative that allows visitors to experience the electrifying world of professional cookery firsthand.

Get a taste of the real deal! From November 11th to 17th, the illustrious Cork International Hotel and the Metropole Hotel will welcome passionate hopefuls like yourself for an unforgettable culinary adventure.

Here's why you shouldn't miss this:

• Get Your Hands On: Book a slot and work alongside seasoned chefs in the heart of a bustling hotel kitchen. Witness the art of creating delicious dishes come alive before your eyes!
• Is This Your Calling? Discover if a career in the fast-paced, dynamic world of hotel kitchens ignites your passion. Test your skills and learn from the best in the industry.
• Fuel Your Passion: Learn valuable techniques from a team dedicated to nurturing culinary talent. Who knows, you might even make your culinary dream come true.
  

Chef Alex Petit, Executive Head Chef of the Trigon Group and a culinary maestro himself is a huge advocate for Open Kitchen Week. "This is a fantastic opportunity for aspiring chefs to see what a professional kitchen is all about," he says. "Our team at Trigon Hotels is passionate about fostering talent, and Open Kitchen Week lets you experience the energy and creativity firsthand. Last year's participants were blown away, and I can't wait to welcome the next generation of culinary stars!”

Photo via Pixabay

Ready to embark on your culinary journey? Head over to https://openkitchen.ie/kitchensignup to book your slot and secure your spot in this exciting event. See you there!

Based on media release.

Visit to the Anglers Rest sparks a Schnitzel odyssey

 Visit to the Anglers Rest sparks Schnitzel odyssey

Some unusual versions: Quail (Tannery) and Cod Tail (Goldie)

Last week’s lunch call to the Anglers Rest set me off on a Schnitzel odyssey. The Leemount had a beef version on offer, which is a bit unusual as Schnitzel is mostly made with veal or pork.

Jacques

Schnitzel, the beloved breaded cutlet traditionally associated with Austria and Germany, has won the hearts of food lovers worldwide. Locally, this versatile dish has found a niche in several restaurants, each offering its unique take on this culinary classic.

From the traditional veal schnitzel to innovative variations like quail and cod tail, local restaurants have enthusiastically embraced the schnitzel. Here's a look at some of the schnitzel dishes I've encountered over the past year or two.

The Tannery's quail.

Schnitzel, a speciality in Austria and Germany, consists of tenderised meat coated in breadcrumbs and fried until golden and crispy. To be classified as Wiener Schnitzel, it must be made with veal, while your regular Schnitzel is frequently made with pork or chicken. So, the beef option was quite unique, yet I recalled other “irregular” versions.

Goldie’s Cod Tail Schnitzel is another out-of-the-ordinary choice. That dish featured soy-cured egg yolk, complemented by celeriac and gherkin remoulade, which enhances the flattened cod, resulting in a delightful explosion of flavours.

Sea Church, Ballycotton. Plenty of "moisture", the way I like my Schnitzel

The Tannery's version was quail schnitzel, served with green peppercorn and wild garlic butter alongside seasonal vegetables. The schnitzel was excellent, and the butter relevated the dish to a stellar level.

Jacques offered Chicken Schnitzel with white cabbage, pickled vegetables, rustic potatoes, and a gorgeous "My Goodness" red cabbage. This dish was delicious, further enhanced by the crunchy cabbage and the tangy pickled elements.

Westport’s Pantry & Corkscrew created this gem: Herb-Crusted Andarl Farm Free-Range Pork Schnitzel, Pancetta and parmesan Cream, Potato, Fennel, and Butternut Hash. Crispy and tasty, full of flavour and texture, the potato and sauce enhanced the whole dish. Sad to say, the restaurant closed earlier this year.

Harrow in Killarney had an excellent version: Pork Schnitzel, Celeriac Purée, Herb and Parmesan Dressing, Celeriac Slaw with Jus. Served with a German potato salad, it turned out to be a hearty, flavoursome dish.

Schnitzel with mushroom sauce. Pic via Pixabay.

Sea Church in Ballycotton served a crispy-coated chicken filet schnitzel with chicken gravy, hand-cut chips, and Caesar-dressed leaves. For an extra euro, you could add a delicious pizza-style topping of chorizo and cheese.

During a trip to Macroom in May, I thoroughly enjoyed Granville’s Continental-style chicken schnitzel—a golden-crumb breast of Irish chicken. It came with a generous helping of mushroom sauce, a traditional accompaniment on the continent.

Beef Schnitzel at The Anglers Rest.

Back now to the Anglers and their Beef version with Roast Cranberries, Caper Butter Sauce, Parmesan, Rocket, plus Salad and Fries (€24.00). It was quite a combination and enjoyable, but I would have loved some of the old hearty mushroom sauce! Or even a rich gravy. 

My colleague (a big fan of their Fish and Chips) enjoyed their 48 Hour Pork Belly with Creamy Potatoes, Confit Carrots, Pickled Apple & Mustard Rosemary Jus (€23.00). The venue was quite busy and the service was friendly and efficient.

Pork Belly

* As these schnitzel dishes were enjoyed over the past year or so, they may not all be available on current menus.

On the craft trail in the west with a session of Lough Gill, Western Herd and Galway Bay

On the Wild Atlantic Way craft trail with a session of Lough Gill, Western Herd and Galway

 Lough Gill Sligo Bay Pale Ale APA, 4.6% ABV, 440 ml can Matsons

This white-soft-topped American Pale ale is pale gold and quite hazy. It is brewed in Sligo with a mix of cereals and American hops for a hop-forward yet malt-supported flavour. Bright and hoppy and Highly Recommended.

Aromas are moderate, led by citrus. Well balanced, as the makers indicate, between hops and malt, and deeply refreshing with a dry finish.

The independent family-run brewery, established in 2016 by James Ward, is nestled close to the shores of Lough Gill, Co. Sligo. Since then, the team has continued producing high-quality, exciting beers, ranging from bold stouts to brave sours.

The water, along with the name, comes from nearby Lough Gill. It is not the first brewery for James and wife Valerie. Their initial venture, the White Hag, was the first brewery in Sligo for the best part of a century. After a couple of years, they sold it to its investor group and launched Lough Gill with Anderson’s Ale in November 2016.

Western Herd County Clare Pale Ale, 4.2% ABV, 440 ml can Matsons

Western Herd’s Count Clare has a clear golden colour and a soft foamy head. Their twist, though, emerges on the palate, where the malts are toned down a bit, and the hops are dialled up. This is the American way. And the County Clare is Highly Recommended.

The Clare Brewery gives the background: Pale Ales became popular in England in the 1700s when they began making beers with only, or nearly only, pale malts. Originally very pale, the beer may now range in colour from pale golden to deep amber or copper. While hops play a key role in the original English style, they are typically subtle and meant to balance the rich malt character. In the much newer American take on Pale Ale, the malt character is downplayed, allowing the flavour and bitterness of the hops to come forward.

Western Herd has come up with yet another well-made, well-balanced beer. It is crisp and refreshing, and as they say themselves, it is “perfect for long, lazy days soaking up the sun on the West Coast, kicking back with a few friends.” I think it would be welcome on any coast, even inland.

Geek Bits

Style
Pale Ale

Colour/Appearance
Golden in colour, crystal clear

Aroma
Slight tropical fruits, citrus and pine

Flavour
Soft citrus, melon, soft pine, background sweetness.

Hops
Citra, Simco, Idaho 7

Malts
Pale, Stout mix, White wheat, CaraPils, CaraHell

Yeast
House

Original Gravity
1.045

% ABV
4.2%

The Best Bit: Visit Flanagans Bar and Restaurant in Lahinch for the immersive Western Herd experience!

***************

Galway Bay Lush Extra Pale Ale, 4.3% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys 

Had this as Beer of the Week earlier in the year. It is a cracker and was Beer of the Week in March. If you wish, you can see the review here